Modern Top-Down Knitting:
Sweaters, Dresses, Skirts and Accessories Inspired by the Techniques of Barbara G. Walker By Kristina McGowan STC Crafts, 2010
This collection of top-down knits is all about clean lines, simple stitch patterns and classic silhouettes. McGowan's use of solid neutral colours and vast swathes of stockinette seems to take more inspiration from women's ready-to-wear than it does from from other knitting designs. It's knitting at it's most wearable and flattering, which robs the book of the instant visual oomph of more playful knitting books (Debbie
Stoller's Superstar Knits, Wendy Bernard's
Custom Knits).
(See a
gallery of all the designs in the book on McGowan's website).
Top-down seamless construction is increasingly popular, but the field is dominated by raglan designs, which are delightfully simple to design and knit but not as universally flattering as the classic set-in sleeve (the default sleeve style for contemporary clothing). A few designers have started offering seamless set-in sleeve designs, but there's definitely room for more. I was excited to see another title dedicated to Barbara Walker's top-down techniques.
Initially, I felt a little underwhelmed by the patterns. The colours were too restrained and the lines were too simple. Garments that probably look wonderful in person failed to leap off the page. A couple dresses caught my attention (
Soho, page 29 and
Suspension, page 57), but I'm still uncertain of my own ability to knit a dress that won't stretch out of shape, so I skimmed over them despite their charms. I didn't even notice the
Promenade dress (p 139), with its short sleeves and cute pin-tuck details. It's is exactly the type of thing I swoon over in a store, but, knit in black and photographed on a bank of shady pavement, it recedes into the matte-finished page so much it's almost invisible.
It wasn't until I took a second look at the book that I saw some of the techniques that make this title really stand apart from other top-down collections. McGowan likes to use elastic cord to create gathers in her fabric (see the
green ruffled tank). While gathers have been pretty popular in the last few years, they're a relative rarity in hand-knitting designs. At least six designs in the book use this technique. McGowan uses crochet to make a casing for a rounded elastic cord. Cleverly, the crochet also makes for a nice-looking edge that doesn't roll (an issue when you work with that much stockinette).

Check out the cap sleeves on the lavender-coloured
Cecily sweater. This is the detail that caught my eye, and now I'm really intrigued by this technique. In fact, I wrote this post so I wouldn't forget about it.
Another notable trick is McGowan's use of trim to finish her edges. This is an idea taken from
handsewing, where a narrow ribbon is used to finish the inside of hem, making the inside of the garment look as nice as possible. McGowan uses velvet ribbon, seam binding, and lace trim on her design to add structure and (again) keep the edges from curling. It's a slightly fussy extra step, but it looks great, and if you've already gone to the trouble of knitting an entire dress, you might as well add this pretty detail.
Final verdict: The photography and muted palette undermine McGowan's appealing designs, but a dedicated reader will find her outside-the-knitting-shop approach rewarding. Particularly recommended for intermediate knitters who crave classic, streamlined designs.
See also: My review of Wendy Bernard's
Custom Knits, another book dedicated to top-down seamless designs.